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Bosnia & Herzegovina

36 Hours in Sarajevo

The cosmopolitan capital city is reclaiming its identity from the war in the early ‘90s, and is polishing up a beautiful tourism trade.

Sarajevo is the capital and largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Hugged by its hills, the metropolitan area is home to about 643,000 people. The Dinaric Alps surround the city, and has the Miljacka River running through it. Often called the ‘heart-shaped land,’ Bosnia lies in the heart of Southeastern Europe, and the Balkans.

Many people still associate Sarajevo with the war in the early ‘90s, but it’s a modern city, and hosts the premier and largest film festival in Southeast Europe—The Sarajevo Film Festival. It’s also the leading political, social, and cultural center of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and is the only major European city to have a mosque, Catholic Church, Orthodox Church, and Synagogue within the same neighbourhood (Baščaršija). Because of its long and rich history of cultural diversity, one of its nicknames is ‘The Jerusalem of the Balkans.’

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Bosnia & Herzegovina Tea Places

The Best Tea House in Sarajevo

I first heard it whispered about in the cozy kitchen of The Doctor’s House hostel in Sarajevo. Čajdžinica Džirlo, or ‘the hippie tea shop’ as the girls at the hostel put it. It was my second day in Bosnia and I was having breakfast with some other guests at the hostel, girls from Spain and Britain. We got to talking about when they told me I had to visit this place, near the Ottoman fountain in Baščaršija, the old town market.

One girl grabbed a map and the place was pointed out and circled.  “It’s awesome,” she said, “You have to go.” I did go, and it was awesome.

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England Tea Places

Tea at Oscar Wilde’s Old Hangout

How better to honour Oscar Wilde, playwright, poet, novelist and total lush, than to savour tea named after him in a gilded room just around the corner from Piccadilly circus in the heart of London’s West End. In his old haunt you’ll find some of the fanciest tea snacks and opulent walls in the city known for its love of afternoon tea. Continue Reading

Bosnia & Herzegovina

There is no journey too arduous for a solid cup of coffee

Originally published on Roads and Kingdoms


It’s late morning when we pass a huddle of sheep by the side of the road and turn the last rocky corner into Lukomir, Bosnia’s highest-altitude and most remote village. It’s tucked into the side of the Bjelašnica Mountain, home to semi-nomadic Bosniak sheep herders. It’s accessible via a ten-mile hike or by truck on crumbling switchbacks—except in the winter, when the only way to access it is on skis. It’s a cluster of small stone houses: short, squat, and steep to protect from snow. Continue Reading

The Philippines

My Path Through the Philippines

Over 7,000 islands and not enough time. I was in the Philippines for three weeks and barely scratched the surface of this complex nation. It is a country that is as heartbreakingly beautiful as it is  heartbreaking — from the famous beaches of Boracay and the cliffs of El Nido, to the slum-towns and poverty that affects roughly a quarter of the population. The Philippines is not somewhere I’ll soon forget.

For a short trip, I’m lucky to have seen the natural beauty, experienced many Filipino smiles warm hospitality, ate lots of delicious new foods and heard firsthand stories about the reality of poverty.

Here’s a brief itinerary of how I spent my time — where I went, what I did and where I stayed.

Philippines Jeepneys on Batad Road

Jeepneys parked along the road to Batad. Parts of the road are new and saved us an extra 2km hike from the area known as ‘the Saddle’. (Mel Hattie/Mel Had Tea)

Travel Days

October 1 — Left Toronto airport in Canada. Head to Manila via Seoul with Korean Air.

October 2 — Arrived in Manila late at night. Headed to Manila International Youth Hostel for the night (There were four dead cockroaches in our room, plus the live ones outside. Would not stay again.).

El Nido, Palawan

October 3 — Flew to El Nido with Air Swift. Arrived around lunchtime. Get settled at Our Melting Pot Hostel and walked around town.

October 4 — Do Island Hopping on Tour A. Kayak, snorkel and swim around Miniloc Island lagoons, Simisu island and Seven Commandos beach.

October 5 — Tour island inland. Watch the sunset from Republica Sunset Bar near Corong Corong beach with new hostel friends.

Loboc, Bohol

October 6 — Flew from El Nido back to Manila, then Manila to Tagbilaran Airport in Bohol with Air Swift. Take a bus to the Nuts Huts trail entrance and hike down into Nuts Huts.

October 7 — Using public transport, visit the Tarsier Sanctuary and Chocolate Hills.

October 8 — Take a kayak up and down Loboc river. Walk into town.

Banaue, Luzon

October 9 — Hike and taxi back to Tagbilaran airport. Catch a flight back to Manila with Air Swift. Kill some time in Mall of Asia then head to the Ohayami bus terminal where we catch the ice cold overnight bus to Banaue.

October 10 — Arrive in Banaue in the morning via the overnight bus. Check into our Banaue Homestay and hike the Banaue rice terraces.

October 11 — Rooftop jeepney ride to Batad entrance from Banaue. Hike around the Batad rice terraces.

October 12 — Tricycle to Ha Pao. Hike the Ha Pao rice terraces to hot spring. Come back to town in the afternoon and spend time in town. Catch the night bus back to Manila.

Manila, Luzon

October 13 — Arrive back in Manila in the morning via the night bus.  Check into Orchid Garden Suites and register for TBEX. Walk around the markets and catch up on some sleep.

October 14 — Photowalk around Intramuros, Manila’s old Spanish colonial city. Opening night party hosted by the Philippine Department of Tourism and Tourism Promotions Board at The Blue Leaf Filipinas, Aseana City.

October 15 — TBEX Conference day at the Philippines International Convention Centre, followed by opening night party at Raffles’ Long Bar hosted by Travel Massive.

October 16 — TBEX Conference the PICC, followed by closing party at Chaos, City of Dreams. Transfer to the Belmont Hotel for the night.

Bulacan, Luzon

October 17 — Pick up from Belmont and head to a Gawad Kalinga NGO village in progress in Quezon City. Spend the morning helping move gravel for home foundations and hanging out with people in the village. Get back on the bus and head to the Gawad Kalinga Enchanted Farm in Bulacan in time for dinner. Stayed onsite at Oasis hotel.

October 18 — Spent the day at Gawad Kalinga Enchanted Farm, meeting entrepreneurs and seeing their different ventures, looking around the farm, meeting people and asking questions.

October 19 — Spent more time around the farm, meeting people and catching baby goats. Leave the farm around lunch time. We’re back in Manila by dinnertime and check in at the Henry Hotel for dinner. After dinner, I repack my bag and catch a 9pm taxi to the airport.

Travel Day

October 20 — With the time change, I arrive back in Halifax at 6pm on the 20th. 33 hours later. I flew Manila, Seoul, Toronto with Korean Air and Toronto to Halifax with Westjet. I booked my flights with Skyscanner.

Woman walking across a bamboo bridge in Banaue, the Philippines. (Mel Hattie/Mel Had Tea)

Woman walking across a bamboo bridge in Banaue. (Mel Hattie/Mel Had Tea)

Tourism and the Philippines

During one of the morning sessions at TBEX, the secretary from the Philippine Department of Tourism, Wanda Corazon Tulfo-Teo, addressed us attendees. She said that for every tourist who visits the Philippines, five jobs are created for three days.

There is an argument to be made about the negative impacts of tourism on the Philippines.  In El Nido and Boracay, there’s the overload on the waste management system and negative environmental impact that comes with loose policies.  In Banaue, the rice terraces are not kept as well as they once were because people would rather be in the well-paying tourism industry than tending rice.

Tourism can also be hugely positive. Tourism dollars can pull people out of poverty and create jobs that people are proud of.

Love is the only appropriate response. In a Gawad Kalinga village in Quezon City. (Mel Hattie/Mel Had Tea)

Love is the only appropriate response. In a Gawad Kalinga village in Quezon City. (Mel Hattie/Mel Had Tea)

Some people would say the natural beauty of the Philippines is its most attractive feature, but really it’s the people. People everywhere met us with hospitality and kindness. I couldn’t turn a corner without someone saying, ‘Good morning, ma’am”. In the slum I visited, the kids called me ‘Ate Mel’, big sister Mel, and asked to see whether I had Pokemon Go on my iPhone.

Pokemon Go didn't work, but Alto's Adventures did! These kids live in a Gawad Kalinga village in Quezon City. (Mel Hattie/Mel Had Tea)

Pokemon Go didn’t work, but Alto’s Adventures did! These kids live in a Gawad Kalinga village in Quezon City. (Mel Hattie/Mel Had Tea)

In closing

The Philippines are beautiful, friendly and affordable. One day you’ll be swimming through a hole in a rock to a secret beach and laughing with your guide as he cooks red snapper on the back of your boat, the next you’ll be brushing up on your colonial history and acknowledging your tourist privilege. If you ever get the chance to go, you should take it.

My travel partner for this trip was Lauren Marinigh over at Twirl the Globe. She’s Canadian too! You can find some great itineraries on her blog.

Here it is on a map